We arrived to Katete at around 9:30am to be led from the hospital entrance to the doctors mess, where we were given coffee and told someone would find out about accommodation for the other three. Each time we were greeted by someone new, I introduced myself and added "I'm not staying". However perhaps this sounded like part of my name, as when eventually someone came to escort the others to their new home, he seemed to expect that Maryam, Rachael and I were all going to be sharing. When I said I wasn't staying (yet again), he asked whether Sean would mind sharing the house with the girls and vice versa, noting that Sean and the girls would have separate rooms. They were expecting to be in roundhouses from what the previous sets of students had said and were surprised when their house was actually rectangular. The house was very basic and the running water didn't seem to work, there weren't any pillows or mosquito nets and Sean didn't have anywhere to store his clothes. We eventually went to have lunch (I was able to have some too) and one of the doctors (who was to be there for THREE YEARS?!?) was able to give the others a low down on how things worked.
I then went to my lodgings. I was given a bed in a double room (though there was nobody else there) with an en suite bathroom. At first glance it looked nice though I later discovered a large daddy long legs hanging right above the toilet, and I haven't worked up the courage to sit on the loo yet. The shower doesn't appear to work so I bathed from the sink with a jug *sigh*. I was informed by the lady at the reception that I could meet "The Director" but on arrival at her house I was greeted by an entire pack of dogs, her sleeping cat and it's vomit in the hallway and she instead directed me to have dinner with her when we would speak. At my later dinner with her and 2 Belgian girls about to undertake a midwifery placement at St Francis. Felt sorry for one of the Belgian girls because she had similar feeling to me about spiders and dogs but was probably much more she'll shocked. I got the impression from the director that she was highly opinionated. I think in younger years I might have found her very interesting but I just found her to be an eccentric with some good ideas but who despite seeming help the community (and probably actually helping to some extent) was a business woman and a bit of a racist. Was not enthused and went to bed after a piss in the shower and a cold wash from the sink with a jug at 830 pm.
I awoke at around 6am to thunderous pouring rain and lay in bed for another couple of hours hoping it would relent a little before I went outside. No such luck. Eventually was getting bored so had another piss and wash in the shower and went to the veranda area for breakfast. The rain ceased a little and I ventured to town. Just as the previous day, the whole of the 40 minute walk to town, kids would come running out their houses shouting "Mzungu (foreigner), HOW ARE YOU" at the top of their lungs. Initially it's quite entertaining but eventually slightly less so. The funniest part is that the "how are you" is less a question but more a statement.
I'm writing this right now and I have to say I'm pretty damn bored in this place and looking forward to leaving. The next few days are pretty much in transit and I feel very much that they are a waste of days given that I'd rather be spending more time in Livingstone and less in Katete/Lusaka. Let's see what the rest of today brings. I'm looking forward to Marz getting done at the hospital.
So just before I got dragged into a management meeting Marz was calling my name from a path leading into the lodge! Phew. Went to town with her again (ooft that's 4x 40 minute walks to and from town) and sorted SIM cards etc and bitched a little. Marz came back to mine and got rid of the horrible spider above my lip so now I can take a shit in peace. Spent most of the day with her and even attended their dinner (though I didn't pinch any food). The other doctors seemed to very much look forward to getting back to the UK, and were joking about the food etc. There was a really cute young one but Marz disagreed with me on this. Came back, had another omelette for dinner, showered and went to bed.
Came out for breakfast a little later the next day, not cos I woke up late but just cos I lay in bed for a bit trying to sort phones etc etc. Got another omelette. Had a chat to the Ecuadorean couple volunteering here for 2 weeks. They told me about the Lusaka bus and about Livingstone and I filled them in on Cape Maclear. They're called.... Belen and Eduardo (of course! takes me back to YSP times.)
The last day was spent with MarzBarz expressing our irritation at the two manky stinky horrible dogs that kept interrupting dinner because one of them had figured out how to open the door to the mess. The other is called danger... because he bites. And probably doesn't have a rabies vaccination. Ugh.
Sorted a bus for the morning and was told to just wait at the roadside at 5am. This all sounded very dubious to me so I checked with a good 4/5 people.
Said bye to MarzBarz which was pretty sad. She's quite like family to me these days and tbh I was worried about her being in Katete ten weeks. She's far more tolerant and resilient than men but I certainly would not manage. Also said bye to Sean and Rachael. Sean gave me a hug which I was semi-shocked at especially given that he never hugged Andrew when he left us and they'd spent more time together, also tbh Sean never struck me as a warm huggy human. He said it had been nice travelling with me the past week. Maybe he was feeling sentimental.
When I was ready to pack up and head to bed at around 830pm I discovered two spiders in my sink. One was tiny and the other was big enough that I felt it would have an unpleasant bite. With much determination I used a toilet brush and the sink to essentially bludgeon and then drown them. Yes, I am a cruel spider killer. However, after all of this, just as I was ready to step into the shower area I spotted a much larger one in the corner. Definitely not bludgeonable. I hoped it might stay put while I showered but did a test run by splashing some of the water in the bucket I use to shower into the area. It did NOT stay put. Instead it scampered up the wall to an even more undesirable location. Stared at it for a while and deliberated going to be super dirty.
Eventually after some tears, hyperventilation and calling out to the lord I made up my mind and headed to the reception area. Here I managed to drag one of the night managers aside by asking to buy an airtime top up and then once I'd done this, mentioned as casually as I could that there was a large spider in my shower. He (Tobias) kindly came along, picked up a stick along the way and then came in and battered this spider. He then announced it was small and they come in much larger sizes. Yay.
The following morning I met Tobias at the reception at 4:45 to head to the roadside (literally, no pavement just the side of the Great Eastern Road where cars come speeding at 180km/hr minimum). The coach was due to arrive at 5. It did not. So Tobias and I made chat for an hour and a half. He asked me when the rainy season was where I lived. He was horrified when I said it rained most days all year round. He smiled then and said that a positive was that we could grow crops all year round. I had to break it to him that crops could get too cold, as could city dwellers (and that large chunks of the country were cities rather than farmland.) After this chat he asked if he could take my photo. I wasn't especially enthused by this idea but I didn't want to say no and then be left at the roadside, so he snapped two photos of me standing with my arms crossed wearing my 45l backpack and holding a supermarket bag of chocolate (acquired in Lilongwe, there is no supermarket in Katete.)
Eventually at 6:20 the bus arrived and I shook hands with Tobias and Abel who had come to join the wait, and as I was doing this the conducted had the nerve to tell me to hurry up. Um hello, I'd been waiting an hour and a half. 10 seconds wasn't going to make all that much difference.
Anyway I was ushered to a seat at the front (thank goodness, ventilation) which some man had to vacate. I'm unclear as to whether it was my reserved seat that he'd stolen or whether he was shafted for the sake of the Mazungu. The bus had a TV screen and plays some real belters on it- 'My heart will go on' and 'I will always love you' and even some Dido. Thankfully there was aircon, though my seatmate was quite stuck to me regardless. Grim. Part way through the journey, the bus made a rest stop and most of the passengers got out and returned with hard boiled eggs, whole mangos and chicken legs in plastic bags. I felt a bit queasy at this point.
Stools: runny, so I'm glad Marz got rid of that first spider so I could take a shit in peace (Bristol 6)